Half of My Heart is Still in Havana

It’s been several months since I had the once in a lifetime experience of visiting Cuba and every now and again, I find myself reflecting on all the incredible memories I was able to create. For decades we as Americans have been closed off from visiting Cuba and the mystique of it all only added to my expectations going in. It’s the same feeling of visiting Disneyworld or seeing the Eiffel Tower or whenever a non-New Yorker goes to Times Square for the first time.

During my 10-day trip, I covered a large stretch of the island which included Havana, Cayo Santa Maria, Caibarién, Cojimar, Remedios, Sancti Spíritus, Santa Clara and Trinidad. Below are the 5 C’s of Cuba you’ll need to guide your planning.

Cars

First things first, the cars are as incredible as I expected them to be. When America enacted the trade embargo, over 50,000 now classic American cars were left on the island. What remains is every street, parking lot, and square being littered with cars in every color of the rainbow in trimmed in bright chrome metals and interiors decked out with custom fabrics and accouterments.

 

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Many of the classics are used as taxi cabs and you can ride in them for dirt cheap. After a night out clubbing, I took a cab back with several friends and the total trip was about $8. Tell me when you get an Uber ride that cheap!  I never got over the allure of hopping into a ’67 T-Bird or a ’63 Chevy Impala. Now, whenever I see classic cars in the US I instantly become a travel snob and think, been there done that.

Comida

Prior to going to Cuba, I heard mixed reviews about the food. One of the biggest complaints I heard was the lack of variety and flavor. Fortunately, I was able to dine at some nice restaurants and only a few times did I find the food to be inedible. Being Latina, I’m genetically predisposed to eat rice and beans seven days a week. But you’ve been warned, if you don’t like eating the same thing all the time, you’ll struggle.

One thing I did make sure to do at each meal was to finish all the food whenever possible. I did this partially out of guilt but also because Seamless doesn’t exist in Cuba. If I was in the mood for a late-night snack my only option was to wait for breakfast the next morning. When food is on the table, you eat.

More importantly, when we traveled to Remedios, I was able to see what the process for food rationing looked like. I was immediately overwhelmed with guilt in thinking about how much food I waste but also felt very blessed to live in a country where I’m not limited to what the government has available at any given moment. Side Note: After observing all of this in action, for the smallest of moments I was pro-rationing food. I think we all could use a lesson in moderation, waste reduction and making the most with just a little.

Many of the restaurants I dined at were Paladars which in Cuban culture refers to restaurants that are operated independently. Up until recently, most tourist-related activities was government run so by eating at Paladar’s you can support local economies and give entrepreneurs a chance to thrive. Because Yelp isn’t a thing in Cuba, here are some ShayShayTried and approved restaurants you can check out.

• La Moraleja (Havana)
• Atelier (Havana)
• Café del Oriente (Havana)
• Habanera (Havana)
• Betty Boom (Havana)
• La Guarida (Havana)
• Ajiaco Café (Comijar)
• Saborearte (Santa Clara)
• La Ceila (Trinidad)
• Restaruante Los 500 (Sancti Spiritus)

A brief tribute to the mojito.

Mojitos are to Cuba as wine is to Europe, it is a water substitute. In fact, should you visit Cuba, don’t drink the water! You will need bottled water always. But back to Mojitos. They were offered at every meal. #ProTip Next time you make a mojito use honey instead of sugar for a smoother finish and dark rum for an extra kick.

Culture

I’ll keep this short because I could do an entire post solely on the cultural elements of Cuba. Instead, I’ll give you a long list of ShayShayTried and approved activities to consider when trying to get el sabor.

• Check out the capital building in Havana
• Explore and observe the charm of Old Havana

 

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• Drive past Revolution Square
• Salsa dance at the Bueno Vista Social Club
• Visit the hotel room where Ernest Hemingway stayed in Havana as well as his home in Cojimar
• See artwork both new and old in National Museum of Fine Arts
• Try some sugar straight from the cane at Marcelo Salado Sugar Mill Museum
• Pay homage at Che Guevara Mausoleum
• Visit Callejon de Hamel a funky art-driven community

  

• Soak in Instagram enviable views on the island of Cayo Santa María
• Learn the history of Parrandas a traditional carnival-like street party held in Villa Clara and Sancti Spíritus
• Watch jewelry makers up close and personal and take home a ring or two at ROX
• Meet Cuban artist Lorenzo Lopez famous for his large and dramatic sculptures

 

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• Tour a cigar factory
• Listen to a concert by the Cuban National Choir or learn the art of trova music
• Hit up a nightclub (I reccommend Sarao in Havana)
• Sit on the beach and do absolutely nothing but relax

Calm

Maybe it’s the glow of being on vacation, or maybe it’s the peacefulness of being surrounded by blue skies and even bluer water, but whatever it was, there was a certain feeling of calm I have never felt before while in Cuba. The internet/Wi-Fi is essentially nonexistent. Although you can buy a Wi-Fi card and then walk to a Wi-Fi vendor to use it, I was adamant about not being connected to the rest of the world.

 

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The most incredible part of Cuba was the safety I felt. There are armed police on many corners and while that might seem frightening anywhere else, I’ve never felt safer. Many nights I stayed out until the wee hours of the morning walking freely throughout the streets and not once did I feel in danger, unsafe, or threatened. In fact, in Sancti Spritus, the town square was packed and bustling with people living life and having fun until 3 am.

It was refreshing to just sit on a bench and people watch. While in Havana, a group of friends and I walked several miles down the Malecon to a club undisturbed. I have tried many times to recreate that feeling of peace and I have resigned to the fact that I’ll have to go to Cuba again to recapture it.

Cigars

You thought I was going to forget cigars, didn’t you? I would never. So even a non-smoker like me was eager to give these world-famous cigars a try. I had the honor of visiting a cigar factory. Unfortunately, no pictures were allowed at the large factory, but I was able to snag a photo in a smaller location in Remedios.

The smell of cigars is quite calming, those factories are hot hot hot, and manual labor at a large scale production level is an incredible process (when it’s not slavery). Watching rows and rows of Cubans hand rolling dozens of cigars was incredible to watch. It made smoking them much more special knowing each one is rolled by hand.

 

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True to the song, my heart is still in Havana and all of Cuba. I’m not sure when or how I’d be able to visit again, but if given the opportunity, I’d go in a heartbeat.